A video of interest…

10 TIPS TO HELP YOU SIT THE TROT

One of the most frequently asked questions I get is, “Can you give me some tips to help me sit the trot better?”
So here are some quick tips to help you with this all too common challenge.

1. First and foremost, your horse needs to be on the bit. If his back is hollow, stiff, or tight, you’ll find it impossible to sit comfortably. (And, in turn, you’ll make your horse uncomfortable too!)
To put him on the bit, use the “connecting aids”. Start in the posting trot on a circle and do the following:
–Close both legs as if you’re asking for a lengthening.
==As your horse starts to surge forward toward a lengthening, close your outside hand in a fist to capture, contain and recycle the power back to the hind legs.
–Keep giving those aids for about 3 seconds.
==If your horse starts to bend his neck to the outside, give some squeezes and releases with your inside hand to keep his neck straight.
–After 3 seconds, soften back to maintenance contact with your legs and hands.

2. Slow the trot down. Ride “sub-power” and when you can sit easily, increase the impulsion for just a few strides at a time. Then slow down again.

3. Put your horse on the bit in posting trot. Once he’s round, sit for just a couple of strides. Start posting again before you feel like you need to grip with your legs. Reorganize your body, relax your legs, and sit again for just a couple of strides.

4. Cross your stirrups over the front of the saddle. Post without your irons until your legs are tired. If they’re tired, you can’t grip so you’ll sit deeper.

5. Focus on your hips. Notice how they open and close in the walk. Mimic that motion when you’re in sitting trot. You can even exaggerate the motion by pretending you’re sitting on a swing and you’re moving your hips to make the swing go higher.

6. Pretend you’re a belly dancer. As you swing your loose hips, use a buzz phrase like, “Do the hootchie kootchie” or “Swing, swing, swing”.

7. Hold the front of the saddle with your inside hand. (Or use a “grab strap”.) Use that hand to pull you deeper into the saddle so you can learn the feeling of sitting close to your horse and moving “with” him in sitting trot.

8. Attach a small strap (like the bottom strap from a flash noseband) to the outside D ring on the saddle. Pull straight up to pull yourself down deeper into the saddle. This also helps to keep your hands forward in the “work area” so you don’t pull back.

9. Relax your knees and thighs by taking then an inch or so off the saddle for a moment, letting them drop, and then placing them on lightly again.

10. Take longe lessons. This is the best way to develop an independent seat so you can sit the trot easily. Don’t use any reins or stirrups. Let the person longing you handle steering and controlling the speed. Do exercises where you move one part of your body while you keep the rest of your body still. (Arm circles, scissor kicks etc.) Also, just practice sitting deeply on your horse in his traveling gaits as well as through upward and downward transitions.

To learn more about sitting the trot, check out: www.programyourposition.com

Solve Horseback Riding Fears

A couple of moths ago I started a Facebook Fan page called Solve Horseback Riding Fears. It has become so much more!

You’ll find free video clips, articles, and training tips on the Wall.

To get to the page, click on Horseback Riding Fear.

Help Your Horse By Sitting Evenly On Your Seatbones

You can help your horse stay in good balance by sitting evenly on your seatbones.

Here’s a cool image to help you make sure you’re part of the solution instead of part of the problem.

Imagine you’re sitting on top of a basketball.
If you lean forward, the basketball shoots out the back.
If you lean back, the basketball shoots out in front of you.
If you lean to the right, the basketball pops out to the left.
If you lean to the left, the basketball pops out to the right.

If you’re sitting straight and evenly on your seatbones, you can keep the basketball directly on top of your horse’s back. For more position tips go to www.programyourposition.com

Sit the Trot Better and Don’t Lose Your Stirrups

The Incredible Shrinking Leg (or How To Avoid Losing Your Stirrups!)

Ruth and I have been giving a bunch of seat and leg position riding lessons lately, and we’ve discovered some interesting things about the correlation of the pelvis, lower leg, and losing your stirrups.

Does this ever happen to you?

Do you lose your stirrups in the sitting trot?
Does your horse slow down in the sitting trot or when you work without stirrups?
Does your knee come out over the front of the saddle when you’re in the sitting trot or canter?
Does it seem that the more you use your leg, the slower your horse goes?
Do you lean forward no matter how hard you try to bring your shoulders back?
Is your bum smacking the saddle in the canter rather than sliding along your tack?
Is it hard to get up into a standing or 2-point position and keep your balance?
Is it just impossible to keep your heels down below the stirrup bar?

All of these problems could be related to the following position issues.
1. Your pelvis is not in a neutral position.
2. You’re gripping or pinching with your knee.

Here’s how the cycle unfolds.

When your pelvis is NOT in NEUTRAL, it can’t work as a spring or joint to follow your horse’s movement. Most of the time with the problems described above, the pelvis is in a too closed or tight position. As a result, in order to keep your balance, you feel that you have to pinch with your knees to stay in the saddle.

This causes problems.

When you pinch with your knees, your whole leg actually draws upward away from gravity (the ground) and shortens your contact with the seat in the saddle. (When I say “seat”, I’m not only talking about where you sit, but also I’m including your upper thigh all the way down to the top of your boot.) The less length of leg you have around your horse, the less stable you are.

When you pinch with your knees (which also closes your thighs), you actually give an aid for your horse to slow down. Remember, your upper leg should close for downward transitions, and your lower leg should close for upward transitions. Your horse won’t know what to think when you close your ENTIRE leg! This is why when you grip harder in the sitting trot to try and stay balanced, your horse slows down.

By now it’s a catch 22 because the slower he goes, the more you’re squeezing to try and speed him up. And yet the more you squeeze, the slower he goes! You’re squeezing yourself right off the top of the horse. (Like squeezing toothpaste out of a tube).

Pinching with your knees with a closed pelvis also inhibits your body weight from dropping into your heels where it should be. With a pinched knee, you stop the ability of your weight to actually get to your heels. (It’s like putting a “stopper” at your knee like a stopper in the bath tub. Gravity can’t pull your weight down to your heels. The “stopper” at your knee is blocking the weight from going down to your heels just like the bathtub stopper keeps the water from running out of a bathtub.)

Pinching with your knees also leads to losing your stirrups. When your leg is not as long as possible, your weight can’t drop down to the stirrup bar. When your weight is not down on the stirrup bar, your heel comes up and you lose your stirrup.

So there you have it. When you get your pelvis into neutral and elongate your thighs, you’ll solve many problems. Below are a few pictures and images that you can use to help with this issue.

Pelvis too closed Pelvis in Neutral Pelvis too open

Elongate your thighs by thinking “gardening knees”.

For more information and solutions for improving your riding position so you don’t lose your stirrups go to www.programyourposition.com

The Right Attitude is a Choice

I thought you’d enjoy this great note from my friend, Kris, who really understands that the right attitude is a CHOICE.

“I woke up this morning with a nasty headache. Grumbling, I crawled out of bed, gently pushing aside two cats and a little dog (Hot flashes or not, I’m well known in this house as a great heat source..). John was already up, as usual. I started down the stairs and winced at my sore knee. Too much trudging through the snowdrifts pushing a wet, heavy manure cart. John was standing at the bottom of the staircase, arms open wide. I snuggled in, enjoying his warmth. He asked how I was.

“My head hurts, my knee is sore, the house is a mess, and I feel like hell…” I replied, sighing into his embrace..

Suddenly, I gasped and pulled way, looking into John’s eyes. “NO!” I shouted, abashed. “I am wonderful! This is 2010! This is THE year! I am healthy, I’m loved, I’m thrilled to be here with YOU! This is THE year I’m going to get that book done, I’m going to get into shape, our business is going to explode with abundance, and I’m going to have the BEST year of my ENTIRE LIFE!”

As the words left my mouth, a rush of energy flowed through my body as though the earth herself was shooting heat up through my feet. It felt it like a physical charge of electrical power, my nerves the conduit as my brain seemed to glow hot with incredible life force.

“I CAN CHOOSE! I CAN CHOOSE! I CHOOSE THIS AS MY YEAR!” I yelled, headache and sore knee totally forgotten. The dogs started barking in response to the jolt of energy that shot through the house. John grinned, pulled me close and squeezed me hard. (My goodness, how I love that man! ).

So, rather than a resolution, I’m choosing for this New Year, an Affirmation. I affirm that I can choose. I affirm that I attract whatever I put out there in the world. I affirm that I will do my best to send only love, kindness, prosperity, understanding, honestly, and gratitude into the world. I affirm that I will look only for the same in return. Anything not of the Light can pass me by. I CHOOSE! Yes, this will take discipline and dedicated mental vigilance, but I’m ready for the challenge. I CHOOSE!

And, I affirm that it doesn’t matter what happens, only how we respond to it. I CHOOSE to do my best to respond to everything that happens in 2010 with maturity, with compassion, and with Trust that all is just as is should be.

For me, this is the Year of Choice. I am CHOOSING a new way. I am CHOOSING a new life. That new life starts on the inside first, and will show up on the outside second. Of this, I am sure, and I intend to prove it.

So, I wish for you, this New Year, a year of CHOICE. A year where we all discover that we really do choose what we receive. I challenge myself and I challenge you to choose from the inside out. What do you want? To get in shape? More money? A new or better relationship? YOU CAN CHOOSE!

Listen, IT STARTS FROM THE INSIDE FIRST! Perhaps, if you are so inclined, you can spend a few moments today deciding what you want from life. The Power is Now. Choose your life, today, and watch it unfold. Let the Divine lend you a hand. All you have to do is choose. And I’ll be right there with you.”

HAPPY NEW YEAR! Kris

Tips To Help Your Put Your Heels Down When Horseback Riding

Can’t get your heels down when horseback riding? The problem may not be your heels!

I’ve been asked a lot recently about why riders have such a hard time keeping their heels down. A heel that is not “down” may not have anything to do with the heel itself, but rather the knee and the calf muscle.

Many times the heel is not down because the calf needs to be stretched. A soft calf allows for the heel to drop below the toe when the foot is resting on the stirrup bar.

When the heel is “down”, it drops just below the stirrup bar. The more important thing, however, is how FLEXIBLE the calf and ankle are and how they absorb the movement of the horse.

The ankle plays an important role in absorbing the movement of the horse under your body. It’s a shock absorber. If you have too much pressure on your toe, your calf muscle and knee are stiff and rigid.

On the other hand, if you force your heel too far down, the back of the calf and knee also becomes stiff. The front and back of your calf as well as your knee should feel soft and springy.

If you feel like your heel is up, chances are you’re gripping with your knee as well. You need to point your kneecap down to lengthen your thigh and drop the whole length of your leg.

The following is a simple exercise that will help stretch your calf to keep it soft and springy. Once you’ve found the correct place for your upper and lower leg around your horse, “anchor” that feeling both mentally and physically. Through anchoring, your muscle memory and subconscious mind take over and automatically make positive position corrections!

Step 1
Stand facing the wall about 3 feet away.

Step 2
Take 1 step forward with your left foot.

Step 3
Place your hands on the wall in front of you. Bend your elbows slightly. Point your shoulders, hips, and feet directly toward the wall.

Step 4
Bend your left knee slowly. Control the amount of stretch you feel in your right calf muscle. Both heels stay on the ground.

Step 5
Keep your right knee (back leg) straight, and hold still for 15 seconds.

Step 6
To stretch the other calf muscle (soleus) in the same leg, slowly bend your right knee, making sure to keep your right heel on the ground. Hold 15 seconds.

Step 7
Slowly push yourself back to starting position.

Step 8
Switch legs. Repeat both the straight knee and bent knee stretches on the other leg to completely stretch your calf.

Attached are a few images that will help you visualize your new position!

Now that the physical side of training your body so you can keep your heels down when horseback riding has begun, it’s time to begin the mental training and conditioning. Look for more information on your mental training at www.programyourposition.com

5 Farrier Tips For Horse Shoes

1. Many horses, depending on their career or lifestyle, don’t need horse shoes. Consult your farrier and get his advice. He’ll decide if your horse needs shoes based on a number of factors. Your farrier should ask you some questions like the following to help you both decide what to do:
• What kind and how much work is your horse doing?
• What kind of footing do you ride on?
• What is the footing in your horse’s turn-out like?
• Do your horse’s feet chip short or grow long when barefoot?
• What time of year is it that you are considering?
• Does your horse have any tendon or ligament injuries?
• Does your horse get abscesses or stone bruises easily?
• Is your horse competing, and if so does he move better with or without shoes?
• What is your budget?
2. Get to know your horse’s feet inside and out. Knowing your horse’s feet can save you time and money. If something starts to change, like a new crack or change in shape, you should be aware of it right away.
3. A change in your horse’s feet means a change in something else. If you notice a change in your horse’s feet, you should look at management and other factors that could have changed such as diet, environment, a new farrier, illness, fever, stall cleanliness, lameness, or weather.
4. You can avoid many situations where shoes are lost by changing the turn-out or management routine. If your horse is coming in from the field more than twice a month with missing shoes, you need to change something.
• Does your horse have on a good quality bell boot that fits correctly?
• Are your pastures deep and muddy?
• Are there any other horses in the field that your horse is not getting along with, causing them to run around inappropriately?
• Is your horse being left out for too long and getting restless?
• Are the shoes that are on your horse the right size, or are they too big, leaving too much steel out behind him to grab with a back foot?
5. Your farrier will tell you that not all horse shoes are created equal. The best shoe for one horse is not necessarily the best shoe for another horse. Every horse and every hoof is an individual. Some of the factors that your farrier should consider when picking out the right shoe for your horse are the shape of the hoof, the job of your horse, the type of footing you ride in, and your riding discipline. Courtesy of Ruth Poulsen

4 Questions to Ask If Your Dressage Horse Is Struggling in a Movement

If your dressage horse is struggling in a movement or exercise, ask yourself 4 questions:

1. Is he going too fast or too slowly?
2. Is his neck too high or too low?
3. Is his frame too open or too closed?
4. Am I asking too much?

If you’re not sure what the problem is, adjust one of the 4 things above to see if that helps your dressage horse.

Keep Your Hands Forward in the “Work Area” When Riding Your Horse

When riding your horse, it’s important to keep your hands forward in what I call the “work area”.

The work area is just in front of the saddle above the horse’s withers. Put your hands in that position and draw an imaginary box around them. That box is your work area.

No matter what rein aids you’re giving, keep your hands in the work area. If you bring your hands closer to your body, you steal power from the hind legs. If you put your outside hand forward, for example, you lose control of the outside shoulder.

Many riders tend to draw their hands toward their bodies and behind their horse’s withers.

So here’s a simple tip to remind you to keep your hands FORWARD in the work area. Imagine there’s a basketball in front of your stomach. Keep your hands in front of the basketball. You can’t draw your hands closer to your body because the basketball is in the way!

Click here for more tips on position images to improve your equitation on your horse.

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