Learning Dressage Movements-Shoulder-in

Shoulder-in is the father of the advanced lateral dressage movements. It does many wonderful things for your horse. Here are just some of them:

Shoulder-in is a suppling exercise because it stretches and loosens the muscles and ligaments of the inside shoulder and forearm. During shoulder-in, your horse passes his inside foreleg in front of his outside foreleg. This motion increases his ability to move his forearm gymnastically in other movements.

It’s also a straightening exercise because you should always straighten your horse by bringing his forehand in front of his hindquarters. Never try to straighten him by leg yielding his hindquarters out behind his shoulders.

Shoulder-in is also a collecting exercise. It increases your horse’s self-carriage because he lowers his inside hip with each step. As a result, his center of gravity shifts back toward his hind legs. His hindquarters carry more weight, and his front end elevates.

What Does Shoulder-In look like?

In shoulder-in, you’ll flex your horse to the inside, and bend him around your inside leg. Then bring his forehand 30 degrees off the wall so he’s on three tracks. At this angle his inside hind leg lines up behind his outside foreleg.

Many people bring their horse’s forehand in more than three tracks. When this is done, all four legs can be seen. This isn’t a problem as long as you can maintain your horse’s bend so that the exercise doesn’t become a leg yield.

Sometimes in competition, the judge likes to see a hoof’s width more than three tracks. But don’t bring the forehand in more than that, or you’ll lose the bend.

What Are the Aids for Shoulder-in?

If you’re doing left shoulder-in, the aids are:

Seat: Put your weight on your left seat bone.

Left leg: Keep your left leg on the girth for bend and to ask for engagement of the inside hind leg.

Right leg: Place your right leg behind the girth to prevent the hindquarters from swinging out.

Left rein:Use your left rein to create a +1 flexion at poll.

Right rein: Keep your right rein steady and supporting to prevent too much bend in the neck.

Both hands:

• Keep both hands low and equidistant from your body as you move them to the left.
• Move them to the left enough to place the outside front leg in front of the inside hind leg. (Or half that distance for shoulder-fore)
• Use your inside rein as an opening rein.
• Bring your outside hand very close to the withers, but never let that hand cross over the withers.

What’s the Sequence of Aids?

• Always ask for bend before you ask for angle.
• The formula for the advanced lateral exercises is:

Bend + Sideways = Engagement. (It’s NOT Sideways + Bend=Engagement.)

• Make a 10-meter circle (or ride a corner with a 10-meter arc) to bend your horse.
• You’ll know your horse is bending easily when you can soften the contact on the inside rein, and he stays bent by himself. He’ll also feel like he’s “giving” in his rib cage. (i.e. If you’re circling to the right, his rib cage feels like it’s bulging to the left.)
• Once he’s bending nicely, start a second 10-meter circle.
• Interrupt that circle during the first step, and continue down the long side.
• To interrupt the circle, look straight down the long side, and give a squeeze with your inside leg.
• Bring both hands to the inside to place the forehand 30 degrees away from the wall.
• Make sure you do shoulder-in with the same amount of bend and angle in both directions. Don’t ride on three tracks in one direction and on three and a half tracks in the other.

How Can You Tell If You’re Doing a High Quality Shoulder-in?

• The quality of the shoulder-in really comes down to BEND.
• You know your horse is bending if his hindquarters are in exactly the same position (i.e.
• parallel to the wall) in shoulder-in as they are when you’re just riding straight down the track.
• If his hindquarters swing out at an angle to the wall, you’re just doing a leg yield in a shoulder-in position.

Click here for more info on shoulder-in lateral dressage movements.

Jane Savoie’s Youtube Shows Leg Yielding Exercise for Dressage Horse Suppleness

I just posted a quick leg yielding video on my Youtube channel at janesavoie. It shows a simple zig-zag exercise both for dressage horse suppleness and for rider coordination.

Canter Your Dressage Horse on the Correct Lead Every Time!

Do You Make These Mistakes When Your Dressage Horse Shies?

I’ve dealt with a lot of spooky dressage horses, and I find that often shying gets worse because riders do one or all of the following things.

1.    Hit or kick him to make him obedient.
2.    Make him walk straight up to scary object and face it straight on.
3.    Forget to go around your ring in both directions.
4.    Force him to go close to the scary object.
5.    Patting and soothing him while he’s shying.

Let’s understand the nature of horses:
1.    Horses shy because they’re afraid.
2.    A horse shies because his natural instinct is to keep himself safe by fleeing.
3.    His eyes are set on the side of his head so he can see with binocular vision (like us) as well as monocular vision.
4.    Many horses are claustrophobic.

So looking back at the first list of rider coping strategies, you can probably see why they don’t work very well.
1.    If your horse is afraid, punishing him convinces him there is something to be afraid of.
2.    Asking your dressage horse to walk straight up to a scary object is one of the most frightening things you can do. In his mind, it’s like asking him to meet a cougar head on.
3.    Like people, horses have a dominant eye. When the dominant eye is on the outside, your horse is less apt to spook because he can survey the environment for possible danger. When the dominant eye is on the inside, he’s more anxious. He’ll want to whip his head around and check out his surroundings with his dominant eye. And while he’s doing that, he’ll be shying from potential danger.
4.    If you try to go by the scary object as close as possible your first time around the ring, you’ll add to your horse’s anxiety.
5.     If you pat him, you’re rewarding him for being spooky. In his mind, you’re praising him for keeping you safe, and he’s more apt to repeat the behavior.

Taking all of the above into consideration, here’s what I do:
1. I never punish a horse that shies.
2. I don’t reward the horse while he’s shying.
3. I walk around a new environment (ring, field, arena) in both directions so he can see everything slowly the first time with both eyes.
4. If the scary object is at A (a flower pot, for example), I won’t go all the way to the short side my first time around the arena. I might turn across the school between V and P. Then each time around I get gradually closer to the short side so when I finally go by the flowers, it’s no big deal.
5. Once I’m working I add the following 2 tools. Well before the flowerpot, I bend my horse’s neck so much to the inside so he can’t see it with either eye.
6. When I’m beside the flower pot, I soften my inside hand forward so my claustrophobic dressage horse doesn’t feel pinned against whatever he’s afraid of.

Click here for more tools to deal with the spooky horse.